2021-22 Topps Finest Flashbacks UCL

Description: The card shown is the card you will receive, unless I’ve listed a quantity higher than one. Any questions or clarifications you may have about the card, please feel free to ask. Surfaces: Chrome cards are susceptible to surface scratches; especially the numbered autos as they are handled more often. Handled by the manufacturer, feeding through the numbering machine, handled by the athletes during signings, etc. Generally pass through more hands and processes. I’m not saying there are or aren’t scratches on this card, but I’m not a professional grader. I look at it as best I can for anything noticeable and call it out above. If nothing is noted above, then there is nothing of note. Again, I am not a grader and don’t have the tools to do so. Everything I list is either pack fresh or pulled from breaks and sleeved/toploaded immediately. Pictures: When we rip, we rip dozens if not hundreds of packs. Card dust is a thing, and those white flecks get EVERYWHERE. We try our best to get them out of the picture, but it’s impossible. So when you see those white flecks, fear not, it’s not an issue with the card! That said, please review closely, especially cards sealed in Hit Parade or encased by the manufacturer. THE CARD YOU SEE IS THE CARD YOU WILL GET! I do my best to note flaws/issues with cards, but I can’t catch everything, so please look closely at pictures and feel free to ask any questions you might have. I am happy to provide more pictures of the card itself outside of it’s case, however I won’t break a seal to do so (Hit Parade, Topps Pristine, Leaf, etc). Any questions, let me know. Offers: Look, I get trying to low-ball to start the negotiation process. I do. However, my “day job” is data and analytics. I’m not perfect by any means, but I research each and every card before listing. I look at current buy-it-now listings, auctions, completed sales, other website comps, etc. I price my cards competitively and based on data, not feelings. I get a lot of super low offers that I get to explain how I came to my price and why it’s fair. Again, I’m not perfect, and I’m not saying I won’t accept offers, but before you send an offer, ask yourself… “would I sell this card for this”? If the answer is no, please reconsider your offer to be fair and data based. If you are a card shop looking to buy my card(s) for cheap to turn a profit, I get it. Then again, ask yourself…how would you if you received the offer you are about to make to me? I’m not trying to get rich. Just trying to have some fun and sustain an inflow of sales so I can buy more cards to sell. My kids and I are doing this as a hobby (having a blast!), which of course I’m trying to make the most of while they are still around and willing to hang with me! Bottom line, let’s not waste each other’s time with back and forth of offers we both know are unreasonable. Shipping: Let’s talk shipping. It stinks. It costs a lot, no way around it. However, it’s a necessary evil to deliver exactly what you want to you directly. Think of it as a convenience fee for someone pulling a card you want and getting it right to you. I don’t add any surcharges for any of the shipping materials, sleeves, top loaders, magnet cases, etc. My general “rule” is I will ship any card $49.99 or more in a magnet case. Anything less goes into a sleeve and top loader and is wrapped in multiple layers of protection. I know it’s tempting to go for the free shipping options, but I’ve had multiple experience where free shipping of a $100+ card was thrown in an envelope with a regular stamp. I generally get to the post office once a day, so chances are your shipment could be out the same day, or at worst the next. I have it marked three days handling just in case something happens.

Price: 2.49 USD

Location: Issaquah, Washington

End Time: 2024-11-05T05:16:50.000Z

Shipping Cost: 1.25 USD